Great Hikes - Lauterbrunnen, Mürren, Gimmelwald
Hiking in Switzerland is truly fantastic and the more time I spend here the more I want to discover.
My most recent trip to the Alps has taken me to some stunning locations, notably in the outstanding Jungfrau region, which is all part of the wider expanse of the Bernese Oberland.
Before coming here again, one hike on my radar was the long and sometimes challenging looped hike out from Lauterbrunnen, to Mürren, Gimmelwald and back down the valley.
To find out more about this amazing hike, please read on.
Background
I guess this was one of those hikes I have meant to do for some time. On the previous two visits to this beautiful part of the Alps, I didn't quite find the time to indulge in so much hiking, as my previous visits were fleeting, and the area was just used as a stopover.
It was also after many years of listening to my father explaining so much about the region, and what it meant to him. I just knew that when the opportunity presented itself, it was something, I just had to do.
Where to start?
Well, this memorable hike starts in the village of Lauterbrunnen. In fact, the start of the trail is just outside the main SBB train station. The railway station is so convenient and is located right in the centre of this picturesque mountain village and for most people arriving here, the train seems like the easiest way to get here.
For this trip, my base was in the nearby town of Interlaken, so to get here I took the train from the Interlaken Oost station and the journey time up into the valley is around 20 minutes or so. It is a relatively inexpensive journey, costing around 3 Swiss Francs or it can be combined as part of a general train pass which then covers more extensive routes and cable cars rides, in the Jungfrau region. This can seem rather expensive at first, but considering it potentially opens up the opportunity to many other routes, it is money well spent.
The train ride, although short, is a good one, as the train climbs out of Interlaken and then clings to the river valley and weaves its way slowly towards higher elevations. It is a scenic trip and it is nice to open the windows and capture the world as it passes you by, something very beautiful and natural.
Once you arrive at the station it is very easy to make many new connections to various other locations or you can easily get out at Lauterbrunnen and begin this and many other walks from there.
Information on travel
For more information on travel times and cost on Swiss trains, you can see here. Swiss trains are ultra-efficient and clean. They will get you around where you need to go and around the area quickly.
Additional information on the Bernese Oberland Railway and travel passes can be found here.
For more about the Jungfrau region and discover what it has to offer, this website will tell you all you need to know. See here.
Further information all about this wonderful region can be discovered here.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is a glorious little alpine village and it certainly can be regarded as one of the many gateways into Europe’s finest mountain ranges. Here you will find a stunning village nestled high among the mountains, glorious nature and an alpine landscape that will almost definitely take your breath away.
Within the picturesque village, you will find all the usual tourist amenities like hotels, traditional restaurants, campsites and a few shops. The village itself is charming and has a great history and character. It is also the starting point for this incredible hike and many others that lead on from here.
Like the popular walk into the main valley and the chance to see the vast array of waterfalls that are dotted throughout this idyllic landscape. Such attractions, not to be missed is the stunning 300m-high Staubbach Falls and nearby, the glacial waters of Trümmelbach Falls, where it is possible for you to get up close and walk along the wooden walkway taking in the sound and appearance of this wonderful torrents of water thundering down the valley.
Time to hike
After getting all the unimportant touristy bits out of the way, the main reason why I came here was to hike, escape other tourists as much as possible, to get outside and enjoy nature at its best.
This wonderful hike starts at the back of the train station and once outside the main station entrance it is easy to find and follow all the necessary hiking signs to Mürren or alternatively you can use a mapping app like Alltrails, in order to help you find your way around the area and further afield, with many additional routes added.
Like with all routes here, once you get started, it is pretty hard to get yourself lost as all the hiking signposts are well maintained and very easy to follow allowing you to easily get from a to b and many other places in between.
Disclaimer: if you are to attempt this particular walk, from the start you will have to understand that it is a long walk and can be very demanding on the feet and body, so if you are thinking of attempting it make sure you do take enough food and water for the day as well as suitable equipment that will help and not hinder.
Alternatively, if you want to do part of the route you can catch the cable car up, close to the station, and then back down again near to Gimmelwald.
Unfortunately, the last two options are not in my mode of thinking. While I am still fit and can do the things I can do, I will always push myself to achieve. I love the challenge and thrive on fulfilling personal goals and feel anything can be done if you put your mind to it.
So, with that mindset in your backpack, you begin to follow the route from the village and slowly start to wind your way along some amazing forest tracks, lined with coniferous trees and wide enough for vehicles to use. Then it mixes into narrow woodland paths that have many switchbacks and are uneven underfoot. It passes close to the MTB route, which looks exciting and very technical in parts.
The route moves past waterfalls and into small open sections, where the trees clear and the views back down into the valley are particularly sensational and pleasing on the eye. Once you begin to get higher, the forests become ever sparser and the towering mountains of the Jungfrau region come into view.
After around 30 minutes of hard, fast uphill walking I eventually made it to the top of the Lauterbrunnen valley on top of the cliffs with epic views that could reveal exactly what I had already achieved on this hike. A point to stop is always a good thing, as it continually gives you small goals and obstacles for you to overcome.
At this point in the hike, the view is pretty wonderful, as you can see directly into the valley and village below to admire the pretty village of Wengen nestled opposite you on a similar altitude level. Then behind that, there is the perfect panorama of the 3 marvelous peaks of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, which all stand there majestically in the perfectly clear air.
I enjoyed these moments greatly and couldn’t help taking lots of photos. It also provides the chance to take a breather, alter your backpack or grab something to eat and drink.
From this point, you are still continuing to climb, but the gradient is less and the landscape is typically what you think of in Switzerland, with cows grazing the meadows and buildings dotted here and there. You can also see here that the land during the winter is used for skiing. There are one or two ski lifts dotted around and the paths you walk on are gentle and more like the blue run on a ski slope.
Lauterbrunnen-Mürren Cog Railway
At Wintereg, you catch the first glimpse of the beautiful mountain railway that runs from the cable car station a little further back called the Grütschalpbahn, to the village of Mürren.
I love these railways and this is particularly a good one. It is not very big, but I am continually amazed at how the Swiss manage to build and maintain these amazing feats of engineering. It is a great sight to see and set within the backdrop of the high Alps, it means once again there are many photography opportunities to be had.
The line is some 4.27km in length and has 4 stations on its route. It was opened back in 1891 and its highest elevation is 1,638 m (5,374 ft). It looks a great little ride if you choose to take the tran to Mürren, but for me on this walk, I just followed close by.
Mürren
The walking and the train routes wind together until you eventually arrive at the small village of Mürren. As you enter Mürren, the first thing that strikes you is not only is it a beautiful place, set with some of the finest Swiss landscapes but it is also traffic-free.
It is an idyllic Swiss mountain village which is situated at the foot of the Schilthorn mountain peak, which becomes easily accessible by cable car. This is featured in one of the famous James Bond films, and the Piz Gloria revolving restaurant (at the top) contains the Bond World 007 exhibit. Furthermore, the viewing point at the top and has some amazing views of the mountains all around and even Mont Blanc in the distance.
The village itself has hotels, a few restaurants and guest houses dotted around as this area is also popular in the winter months as a ski resort. It is a nice place to amble around and if you drop down through the village there are some amazing views to be had on the edge of the village centre. So much so, many of the visitors to the village congregate in order to take a photo or two.
As I passed through the village, I filled up my water bottle from the mountain stream and quickly stopped at Cafe Liv for a quick take away coffee and sandwich. Now, if you are in the vicinity, I would thoroughly recommend a stop here, as the sandwiches are so good, the carrot cake was exquisite and the cafe owners are very friendly and for me, this is worth its weight in gold.
I packed my items in the backpack and didn’t really hand around, as COVID times mean that I generally like to keep my distance and eat on a mountainside as opposed to the seats outside.
Gimmelwald
Once you have followed the signs and slowly descended towards the outskirts of the village, the route I had chosen was to take me towards the stunning village of Gimmelwald.
I had heard a lot about Gimmelwald and paid particular attention to the reviews of Rick Steves. He famously quoted: "If Heaven isn't what it's cracked up to be, send me back to Gimmelwald." And with that sort of review, I was intrigued to find out if it was true.
The hike down to Gimmelwald is probably one of the most scenic and leisurely sections you will do on the route. The views are simply stunning and if you look out from your hiking position you will see the path meanders perfectly in front of you. It is stunning and has many switchbacks to enjoy. It is downhill on this section and downhill sections can take their toll on your ankles and shins, so it is important to take your time and of course, always wear appropriate shoes.
In no time at all, I had made it into the village, well… the hamlet of Gimmelwald. Once again it was traffic-free and home to several beautiful Swiss cottages dotted across the landscape. All of these dwellings were made from wood and the exterior draped in flowers, with garden plots awash with all different varieties of wildflowers. It was such a pretty sight to see and you can see why so many people choose to visit here.
This hamlet is nestled into the landscape of one of the most dramatic valleys you will see, which makes it fairly secluded and cut off from the outside world. That is why the locals have fought hard to keep it the way it is and perhaps not encourage the overspill of tourists.
With that said, most day-trippers reach the village by the Stechelberg Gondola, which is located in the valley below. You can always walk up the way I would be going down, or arrive from Mürren as I did. It is your choice, but coming here will not disappoint you, perhaps even refocus your mind to think that exceptional and naturally beautiful places still do exist.
Once I had taken it all in, eaten half of my sandwich. I soldiered on to make my way out of the village and towards the valley below.
The next section of this walk was a challenge. Mainly due to the fact the terrain changed and the paths become steep, rugged and narrower, as I weaved my way through the lush green woodland. I was in awe, with the cascading rock structures high above me and all around. Through the trees, I caught fleeting glimpses of the valley below. I crossed waterfalls that threw torrents of water at great speed. It was an intense experience and something I shall never forget.
For this section of the hike, my trekking poles came out and added some stability, which was needed underfoot. The path is rocky and wet in parts. These ingredients often lead to mistakes and accidents, so caution is always needed.
Towards the bottom of the valley, the path gets even more challenging as the twist and turns get tighter and the views ever more appealing.
>> 10 years old, but the Youtube clip from Ric Steve summarises Gimmelwald perfectly.
Lauterbrunnen Valley
Eventually, the winding route took me to the village of Stechelberg. Once again it is a very small place and it is located right at the very end of the valley from where I started.
At this point, you can take a breath and admire the impact of nature. The scenery is simply out of this world and it is hard to really describe how you feel, other than feeling small. It is an immense landscape with towering cliffs and waterfalls as far as the eye can see.
I was enjoying the moment and taking any number of photographs, simply trying to enjoy what I don’t necessarily see every day.
From here, it is another 6km on foot through this picturesque valley. It is more popular with hikers, as it the terrain is good and it is flat. Alongside the trail is the river and it has certainly become a popular place, with tourists and day-trippers coming to admire this lovely landscape.
On the valley floor, you pass farmsteads and beautiful wildflower meadows, which catch your eye. To the right and left there are signs marking waterfalls that cascade freely some 300 metres from the cliff tops above. It is an amazing sight and something I shall never forget.
Towards the village of Lauterbrunnen and nearing the end of my hike. I stop at the end of the valley to admire the view and a wonderful spectacle of nature. It is an awe-inspiring view and to see this every day must be amazing.
>> If the hike isn’t thrilling enough, you can always give the Via Ferrata a whirl.
Thank You
Once again, a big thank for reading my musings and my take on a remarkable alpine walk. This hike lived up to all my expectations and exceeded all of those. It was so great to be out, hardly see another soul and simply revel in nature at its best.
Having listened to stories and read articles aplenty. I can see why so many people opt to visit here. It is beautiful, massive in scale and the impact of man is monitored and regulated so that nature stays in control.
As with everything I do, I don’t claim to be the expert. It is simply my intention to share something with other like-minded souls, in the hope that they too will get to enjoy something as wonderful as I did.
Thanks for your support in reading this blog and if you would like to collaborate in the future please do not hesitate and get in touch.
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